The Vercelli province has a long and storied tradition of being an important agricultural center on the Italian peninsula, dating all the way back to the age of the Roman Empire. In the days of Rome, the people of what would eventually become Vercelli were revered for their production of both rice and wine.

Naturally, a people that are so well known for the production of food would develop their own unique, delicious culinary traditions. To this day, the people of Vercelli continue to farm rice, which features heavily in many of their traditional dishes. More than 100 varieties of rice are cultivated in the province of Vercelli including Arborio, New Maratelli, Sant’Andrea, Carnaroli, and Balilla. Locals also raise livestock such as pigs and goats, and grow a particular sort of red bean known locally as the saluggia bean. The tradition of farming the saluggia bean, also known as the cranberry bean or the borlotti bean, goes back just as long as the tradition of harvesting rice has, and the foodstuff features nearly as prominently in Piemonte cuisine as rice does. Also common in local dishes is pork, which has been farmed just as long as either of the two crops.

Vercelli is also very well known for its history of winemaking. Just like with their rice and beans, the people of Vercelli have been farming grapes and making wine in the region since the days of the Roman Empire, and their practices continue to this day. The most famous wine produced in the region is the Gattinara DOCG wine, which is a typical local red wine made from the nebbiolo grapes that has gained international acclaim.

APPETIZERS

One of the most delicious dishes to begin a meal with in Vercelli is known as bagna càuda. This hot dish features a special sauce made primarily from garlic, anchovies, and extra virgin olive oil. The Bagna Càuda sauce is heated and served in a pot, similar to fondue. From there, guests are invited to dip fresh vegetables or cooked vegetables into the sauce and enjoy. Bagna Càuda is a highly traditional meal rarely found outside of the Piemonte region, so visitors are encouraged to try it if they get the chance.

However, if the mixture of garlic and anchovy does not entice, there are plenty of other delicious ways to begin a meal in Vercelli, such as with a plate of regional cured meats and cheeses. One local form of salame, for example, is called salame della duja. This salame is a pure pork sausage that has been preserved in pork fat. This gives the salame a very distinctive feature; a white ring of fat surrounding the meat. Its production is limited only to parts of Piemonte, so it is an exclusive treat.

As for cheeses, visitors to Vercelli should seek out the local Maccagno cheese. This soft cheese is made out of full-cream cow’s milk and is served pressed and half-cooked. Perhaps the more prominent local cheese, though, is Toma cheese. This semisoft-to-hard cheese dates back to the days of the Roman Empire and comes in multiple different varieties. Similar to mozzarella, Toma cheese can be served either fresh or matured, and may also be treated with garlic, herbs, spices, or chili peppers.

Finally, for those that are really hungry and wish to start with something a little heartier, Vercelli offers a dish known as Bergturta. Also known as Alagna’s Turta, this dish is a fluffy pastry that has been stuffed with numerous ingredients, including locally made Toma cheese, dried figs, sliced and cooked apples and onions, and chopped speck.

FIRST COURSE

The most famous dish to come out of Vercelli is surely the local risotto known as panissa vercellese. Making use of both of the local major crops, this risotto is a mixture of rice (Arborio, Baldo, Sant’Andrea, or Maratelli) and saluggia beans, combined with several other local ingredients. The rice and beans are mixed together along with lard, olive oil, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, onions, Barbera wine, and salame della duja. This delicious dish is known as the signature dish of Vercelli, so visitors should make an effort to try it.

Another dish commonly served in Vercelli is fagiolata stew. This bean stew is made with multiple different types of beans all mixed together, and served over or alongside slices of bread. The most commonly used bean is the local saluggia bean, but black beans and cannellini beans are also used to create a subtle mixture of different textures and nuances of flavor. The beans are cooked with locally grown vegetables, including any mixture of shallots, onions, garlic, carrots, asparagus, celery, and artichoke, with recipes varying from chef to chef.

Other common first courses that are local to Vercelli include such dishes as ava cocia, which is a dish of cooked garlic, onions, herbs, and local toma cheese poured over bread. Visitors may also enjoy rognose omelettes, which are omelettes made with the local salame della duja.

SECOND COURSE

One of the major second course dishes one may find in Vercelli is known as straccetti. Literally translating to “rags,” this dish features strips of beef served over vegetables. Straccetti can be served with many other accompanying ingredients, such as arugula, which creates straccetti di manzo con la rughetta, or spinach and mushrooms, creating straccetti con spinaci e funghi. The ways to serve Straccetti are truly endless and all depend on who is cooking that night.

Vercelli locals also enjoy a dish called capuneit. This dish features simple rolls made from either rhubarb, savoy, or cabbage leaves. Traditionally, the rolls are stuffed with a mixture of leftover meats from other dishes such as pork, goat, beef, or venison, though some chefs prefer to make it with mortadella, which is a cured meat from Bologna. Whatever meat is used, the meats are combined with fresh vegetables such as shallots, onions, garlic, and parsley leaves, along with herbs such as sage and rosemary. The mixture is completed by adding chunks of stale bread that have been soaked in milk, completing the stuffing. The roll is then braised in a pan with butter or olive oil, and a little bit of white wine.

Other dishes commonly eaten in Vercelli include mocetta, which is dry, smoked, and cured goat thigh, veal, or venison meat. This meat is flavored with mountain herbs and juniper berries and served thinly sliced.

There is also polenta concia, which is a dish made from polenta, cheese, and butter. For this dish, soft polenta is prepared with locally made Toma cheese melted into it. Some chefs might also add multiple kinds of cheeses that blend together in the melted mixture, such as Fontina, Taleggio, and Gorgonzola cheeses.

Fried pork is included in the traditional gastronomy of Vercelli, which lays at the basis of the farmer’s diet, as every part of the pig was eaten.

Frogs are cooked in a variety of ways in Vercelli. To prepare the Vercelli-style frogs, for example, frogs are floured and browned in a pan with oil or butter. Vegetables and herbs such as chard, parsley, garlic, and tomato are cooked separately then added to the pan with the frogs. Another local favorite is risotto with frogs.

Additionally, ciburea and ratatuja is a local dish that features offal and potatoes served in gravy.

SIDE DISHES & CONDIMENTS

One very traditional food from the Vercelli area is known as miaccia. Miaccia is a very simple pastry made with white flour, milk, and eggs. It can be made plain and served as a side dish, in which case it takes the form of a crispy, crunchy cracker. This is how the dish has been traditionally served for thousands of years.

However, many chefs these days prefer to serve miaccia as a stuffed pastry. This traditional Vercelli dish can be stuffed with nearly anything imaginable. Miaccia can be stuffed with Toma cheese, gorgonzola, salame or other cured meats such as speck, vegetables, and much more. The most common filling, however, is salignon cheese; a soft, spicy cheese similar in texture to ricotta that is endemic to the region.

Masarai potatoes is a very simple dish made with only four ingredients: leek, pancetta, milk, and potatoes. The leeks and pancetta are browned in a non-stick pan, then milk and diced potatoes are added. Lastly, they are stewed for approximately ninety minutes.

Perhaps the most traditional sauce found in the Vercelli area is the aforementioned bagna càuda sauce. While it is commonly served as an appetizer, it can also be served like a traditional sauce over other foods. For a truly unique experience, try the previously mentioned dish known as ciburea and ratatuja, which can be served with bagna càuda sauce.

STREET FOOD

Local specialties that may be enjoyed on the go in Vercelli include fried pieces of pork, fried polenta, and miaccia.

DESSERT

One cannot visit Vercelli without trying a slice of their traditional tartufata. This delectable sponge cake seems almost designed to trap people who have a sweet tooth when they are on a diet. Tartufata is made with loads of eggs and sugar, creating a light fluffy cake. The cake is then filled with a delectable, creamy custard made with egg yolks, hazelnuts, vanilla, and cream. The whole cake is soaked in rum and maraschino spirits. The outer edges are covered with crushed hazelnuts and the top of the cake is covered with chocolate and powdered sugar.

Another common dessert found in Vercelli are bicciolani cookies. These sweet and aromatic cookies are incredibly crunchy and crumbly and are made with many spices including cinnamon, cloves, ginger, coriander, vanilla, mace, and cocoa. They are traditionally served alongside dessert wines, such as Alta Langa spumante rosato, Moscato d’Asti or Monferrato Chiaretto, or with tea.

Finally, while it is traditionally a side dish, Miaccia can also be served as a dessert. Many chefs like to stuff their Miaccia with jam (usually blueberry jam), cream, sweetened butter, or honey.

WINE

Wine is one of the most important and traditional exports in Vercelli. The history of winemaking in the area goes back thousands of years, all the way back to the days of the Roman Empire.

Of all the wines produced in the region, however, the most famous and popular one has to be the Gattinara wine. This internationally famous wine is made from local Nebbiolo grapes harvested in early October and grown in rocky soil that is rich with minerals. This wine is known for getting better as it ages and can last between eight and ten years when stored correctly.

Gattinara wine is a deep, pomegranate red with a medium body and good depth. It features soft, silky tannins with good structure and an intense mineral fragrance. It is DOCG protected and only made in the Vercelli area. Visitors are encouraged to try pairing this wine with red meat, poultry, game, and cheese.

In addition to typical staples of Piedmontese cuisine, the city of Vercelli offers several delicious local specialties unique to the area. During a trip to Vercelli, travelers can enjoy a dinner of panissa vercellese, stracetti, miaccia, and tartufata cake accompanied by the eminent locally-produced Gattinara red wine.