The far northern city of Bergamo is one of Italy’s crown jewels when it comes to natural beauty, quintessential Italian charm, and a delightfully traditional cuisine. Homemade stuffed pastas that are lovingly made by hand in small kitchens and fragrant locally-produced cheeses are seemingly simple staples that taste anything but ordinary. Due to its mountain location, the province of Bergamo is rich in natural water sources, such as lakes and rivers, and therefore produces impressive amounts of mineral water from sources such as San Pellegrino Terme. Pull up a chair, top off your wine glass and prepare to enjoy the dining experience of a lifetime in Bergamo.

APPETIZERS

A popular appetizer in Bergamo consists of a variety of tasty cured meats paired with locally made cheeses that are served with a regional specialty, polenta taragna. This type of polenta is slightly grayer in color than usual due to the presence of buckwheat and has fabulous flavor when mixed with cheese and butter, as it commonly is. In addition to being served as a side, polenta taragna is frequently enjoyed all on its own.

Cured meats in Bergamo and the surrounding area are various and of top quality, as is the cheese. One of the most prized local cured meats is salame bergamasco, which is coarsely ground and often seasoned with garlic, pepper, or wine.

Today the province of Bergamo, above all the mountainous area and valleys, is in first place in Italy for the number of PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) cheeses, and it is estimated there are approximately 150 working alpine pastures. Locally-produced cheeses include Branzi, an aged cheese with spicy notes, and Taleggio, a soft cow’s milk cheese.

Many of the first and second courses of Bergamo are fairly hearty, and you will not want to miss out on dessert, so it is best to pace yourself starting with the appetizer.

FIRST COURSE

Casonsei is a popular and traditional dish of the city. This stuffed pasta is made from a dough of flour, water, salt, and eggs and filled with a mixture of beef, broth, parsley, salt, bread, Grana Padano, garlic, and nutmeg. The delicious pasta is typically served alla bergamasca with butter, sage, and pancetta.

Another stuffed pasta favored by the locals is called scarpinocc de Parr. The name of the dish derives from its place of origin, which is the small town of Parre in the province of Bergamo. In contrast to casonsei, the filling for this pasta does not contain any meat. Rather, this shoe-shaped pasta is filled with cheese, eggs, breadcrumbs, butter, and spices.

When in Bergamo, be sure to also try a delicious risotto flavored with local porcini mushrooms. Though simple in nature, this dish is particularly decadent when topped with truffle shavings or cheese made in the province of Bergamo. This is a fabulous first course that will warm you up from the inside out on a cold evening or brisk winter day. Many different variations of risotto are enjoyed here depending on the season.

SECOND COURSE

In this hilly area, second courses most often consist of hearty meat-based dishes cooked in decadent cheeses, butter, and even wine. Even though the city is far from the ocean, fish-based dishes are not uncommon and are sometimes harvested from rivers and lakes of the province, such as Lake Iseo.

Polenta e uccelletti is a traditional dish of the area dating all the way back in some form or another to the Roman period. The dish is polenta that is served with a small bird, usually a lark or thrush. The presentation of this menu item makes it truly unique in that the birds are plucked, but otherwise kept whole, with even the head remaining, and are then placed onto skewers with sage and thick slices of pancetta or pork for flavor. The birds are typically served fresh from the grill and placed on top of a polenta base.

Locals also enjoy salmì hare, which is a rich stew that originates from the Seriana Valley. The stew can be made with a variety of meats, but the most common in the province of Bergamo is hare.

Although it may be a more admittedly unusual taste for many travelers, other traditional second courses of Bergamo can sometimes include horse or donkey meat which is also served with a side of polenta.

SIDE DISHES

Polenta, briefly mentioned in the appetizer and second course sections, is one food that is emblematic of Bergamo, as well as Northern Italy as whole. This cornmeal-based staple has ancient origins and is endlessly versatile. It may be enjoyed as an appetizer, or served as a side dish with meat or another second course dish. Depending on preferences, it may be served plain or enhanced with other ingredients, such as butter and cheese.

STREET FOOD

In Bergamo, beloved polenta can also be enjoyed on the go. Locals love it fried or in a hot bowl ready to warm them up on a cold day. The bowl version may be plain or served with butter and cheese or a rich sauce, such as wild boar ragù

DESSERT

Bergamo’s Città Alta is widely known for a variety of sweet shops that sell polenta of a sweeter variety, polenta e osei. Not to be confused with the savory version described in the second course section, these yellow confections made of corn flour are made with almond paste and flavored with chocolate, marzipan, and sweet cream. This traditional domed cake-like creation’s signature characteristic is the chocolate shapes on top which are designed to represent birds. Polenta e osei is a must try while visiting the city.

As in many other areas of Italy, gelato is a tasty frozen treat. Especially on a warm summer day, a cup of gelato really hits the spot. Although there are a number of different flavors to choose from, locals are said to be a bit partial to the stracciatella gelato, which is a milk-based flavor with chocolate savings that is believed to have originated in Bergamo.

Another regional favorite is a cake called Torta del Donizetti which is named after famous opera composer and Bergamo native Gaetano Donizetti. This sweet ring-shaped cake is made of a combination of potato and wheat flour, sugar, butter, eggs, candied fruit, such as apricots, and usually a splash of vanilla and maraschino. The yellow cake is a rich golden brown on the outside and is usually dusted with sugar on top.

WINE

In the area of Bergamo, Valcalepio DOC wine is enjoyed and considered somewhat of a local treat as this wine can be difficult to find internationally. The wine includes a Rosso variety, which is a delicious blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes, and a Bianco variety, which is made from Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco grapes

Another local wine is Moscato di Scanzo DOCG, which is a sweet passito wine made from dried Moscato Rosso grapes.

On dinner tables in Bergamo, travelers will find the best of Northern Italy’s cuisine, such as polenta, served up with distinct and delicious local specialties, such as casonsei. When in Bergamo, be sure to pair your meal with a glass of the legendary sparkling water produced in the province as well as a tall glass of local wine.