Sulmona Food and Wine

Located in Central Italy in the largely rural region of Abruzzo sits a lovely town that exudes Italian charm, Sulmona. Nestled between mountains and national parks, this picturesque city is home to authentic, homemade cuisine that warms the body from the inside out. Regardless of when or where you dine, the hearty and flavorful tastes of Italy promise to engage and delight the palate.

Sulmona’s largely unchanging rural surroundings of mountains and green space over the years lends itself to a rather traditional cuisine typical of the region of Abruzzo. However, chefs are increasingly finding ways to add a little modern flair to traditional dishes. Whatever the case, some hallmarks of Sulmona cuisine are Aglio Rosso di Sulmona, pecorino cheese, lentils, and pasta.

Aglio Rosso di Sulmona, sometimes referred to as red garlic, is grown here and has earned the distinction of a protected designation of origin product. This garlic of a reddish hue is unique for its color and larger size. It has a smooth flavor and is used in a number of Sulmona delicacies.

Mountain life can present some agricultural challenges making pecorino cheese and lentils key components for many local dishes. Pecorino is a sheep’s milk cheese that is used as a garnish for main courses and even as a standalone menu item that is frequently served drizzled with honey and with a glass of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wine.

APPETIZER

As in many parts of Italy, fresh, homemade bread is a welcome staple in Sulmona. The locals here enjoy Solina bread, which is named aptly for its key ingredient, solina flour. This grain is quite easy to grow in the region so it is used in both breads and pastas. Solina sour bread is a bit darker in color and is a delicious appetizer when served with pecorino cheese.

Small bites of crusty bread topped with locally made olive oil and sausage are topped with freshly grown and roasted vegetables. Bruschetta is a basic dish with simple ingredients, as much of Sulmona’s food is, but fresh and homemade ingredients take this appetizer to a whole new level.

No Italian table should be without the offerings of a combination of locally made meats and cheeses. As with the bruschetta, the dish may sound simple in nature, but the authenticity and flavor of every bite yields delicious results.

FIRST COURSE

The most popular first courses of Sulmona are often pasta-based. Regardless of what kind of homemade pasta visitors find themselves dining on, it is heavenly. Two of the more requested pasta dishes served here are ceppe and maccheroni alla chitarra.

Ceppe is an egg pasta made by rolling dough around the length of a thin knitting needle. This allows for a long, hollow strand that is perfectly paired with a homemade meat ragù and topping of pecorino cheese. Maccheroni alla chitarra is a locally made pasta called as such because the frame used to form the pasta uses strings similar to that of a guitar. These flat spaghetti-like strands are frequently served throughout the Abruzzo region with a lamb ragù.

Other common first courses in Sulmona include risotto alla navallese and sagne e fagioli. Risotto alla navallese, often referred to as the precursor to risotto alla milanese, is rice that is cooked in a meat, seafood, or vegetable broth until it becomes creamy. It is usually enjoyed here with the special ingredients of saffron and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Sagne e fagioli is a unique soup consisting of beans and pasta as well as oil, garlic, tomatoes, and pepperoncini.

SECOND COURSE

Much of Sulmona’s meat-based dishes are derived from sheep or pork, but others such as seafood are part of the menu as well.

Fish broth soups are a popular protein packed second course option. There are more variations of this dish than can be listed here, but each is diverse, slow cooked, and flavored to perfection. One of the more frequently requested versions of this soup is brodetto alla vastese. This variation features fresh assorted fish seasoned with tomatoes, bell pepper, garlic, parsley, and salt.

Any kind of lamb is a welcome menu addition. Lamb is frequently served roasted or grilled and accompanied with homegrown and freshly picked vegetables that are seasoned for flavor with items such as peppers. A favorite version of sheep is arrosticini which is also a popular street food for the city.

Tagliata steak is another hearty entrée. This steak is carved into thin pre-cut slices which is where it earns the name tagliata (cut).

The grilled steak may come with a special marinade or sauce and is usually served over mixed greens.

A common meatless pairing for the second course in the Abruzzo region is polenta e fagioli, or polenta and beans.

SIDE DISHES

Seasonal vegetables, potatoes, beans, and lentils are all common ingredients that are featured in the side dishes of the region.

STREET FOOD

One of the most popular street foods in Sulmona and all of the region of Abruzzo is arrosticini. This savory snack consists of small, tender cubes of lamb meat that are stacked on a wooden skewer and cooked over a special grill called a canalina. Arrosticini are usually served in bunches of five, but many people eat and enjoy in excess of that.

DESSERT

Traditional confetti are hands down the most famous dessert in the city. Confetti di Sulmona are actually sugar-coated almonds that can be made in every hue of the rainbow. These deliciously addictive sweet treats can be served loose in a bowl but are more often arranged into beautiful shapes of flower bouquets and other intricate designs. This dessert is so popular in the city and outlying areas that Sulmona even has a museum dedicated to this sweet treat. Though they were invented in Sulmona, today Italians throughout the country celebrate weddings and other special occasions with confetti.

Other locally made desserts include Pan dell’Orso, Torrone Tenero Aquilano, and Gelato. Pan dell’Orso is a sturdy dome-shaped cake made with almond flour and honey and covered with chocolate on the exterior. Although it is enjoyed throughout the year, it is commonly served during the Christmas holiday. Torrone Tenero Aquilano is a soft and decadent chocolate nougat made from egg whites, honey, nuts, and cocoa powder. Gelato, as in much of Italy, is always a crowd favorite and a lovely treat, especially on a warm day.

Locals also enjoy cassata di Sulmona, a cake made with nougat, chocolate, egg yolks, sugar, and butter, and scarpone di Sulmona, a chocolate cookie made with almonds, cinnamon, raisins, and grape must.

WINE

Enjoying the simple yet hearty fare of Sulmona without a glass of fine Italian wine, is an incomplete dining experience. Savor every bite and bring out the delicious flavors by pairing the meal with a locally made wine.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is made from the Italian Montepulciano grape. It is a medium-bodied red wine that pairs well with various meat and winter vegetable dishes. Trabbiano d’Abruzzo is a locally made and enjoyed white wine that goes well with seafood, pasta, and risotto. Also popular in Sulmona are the wines of Controguerra, which predominately utilize the Montepulciano grape.

The picturesque city of Sulmona awaits all foodies with a variety of local specialties. In Sulmona, there is something for everyone, with traditional dishes ranging from homemade maccheroni alla chitarra to arrosticini and confetti.

Travel Guides

The Abruzzo Region of Italy

The Cities of Abruzzo, Italy