Lake Maggiore Food and Wine

The stunning natural beauty of the Lake Maggiore area at the border of Northern Italy and Switzerland is truly one of the crown jewels of Europe. As the second largest lake in Italy, it is lined with dozens of charming little towns and island communities that each make their own contribution to the distinct Lake Maggiore way of life. Although the area is known for its picturesque natural scenery of snowcapped mountains and sparkling blue lake waters, it is also renowned for a tasty cuisine rich in fresh lake fish, locally made meats and cheeses, and a lovely selection of decadent desserts.

In each of these culinary delights, quality ingredients are key. One ingredient that shows up in some local dishes, honey, is considered to be the pride of the area. The Lake Maggiore area is widely known for its ancient tradition of beekeeping, which dates back to the fourteenth century. Lake Maggiore’s high-quality honey can be paired with local cheese, featured in desserts, or incorporated into first and second course dishes.

It is worth noting that to locals and connoisseurs alike, not all honey is created equal. The unique geography of this area allows bees to produce honey at several different altitudes, each with a variety of unique vegetation. For this reason, honey from Lake Maggiore can take on a range of flavors and colors all courtesy of the bees. There are seven different varieties of honey produced in Lake Maggiore including chestnut, black locust flower, linden, rhododendron, honeydew honey (forest honey), wildflower, and mountain wildflower. Colors can range from light yellow to amber, and flavors can range from sweet to slightly bitter. There are even two organizations that safeguard local honey production to guarantee its quality.

Another culinary staple produced locally is rice. In the area around Novara, which is south of Lake Maggiore, rice has driven the local economy and scenery for more than 500 years. Many different kinds of rice are grown in the area including classic Italian types such as Arborio, Roma, Vialone Nano, and Venere. The rice is incorporated into a variety of local risotti as well as other dishes.

A fine dining experience is an integral part of Italian tradition. So, however you choose to enjoy the culinary masterpieces of Lake Maggiore, plan to spend several relaxing and laughter-filled hours around the dinner table as you enjoy fabulous food, good company, and a glass or two of fine wine.

APPETIZERS

As is common throughout the rest of the country, appetizers in the Lake Maggiore area are characterized by the presence of locally made meats and cheeses. Due to its particular geography, the Lake Maggiore area is celebrated for its cheese derived from the milk of animals that graze in the mountainous areas. This part of Italy has engaged in cheese production of revered quality for centuries.

Cheeses often featured on local menus include a cow’s milk cheese called Ossolano d’Alpe, which is known for its mild flavor, another cow’s milk cheese referred to as Bettelmatt, ricotta, several different goat’s milk cheeses, and Mottarone, a pale-yellow cheese. At lower elevations near the lake itself, Formagella di Luino, a type of goat’s milk cheese, is produced. Furthermore, the areas around Varese and Novara, which are in the vicinity of Lake Maggiore, are well-known for their gorgonzola.

The cheeses may be accompanied by cured meats, and these traditional products have been produced in the Lake Maggiore area for countless generations. Among the most characteristic cured meats in the area are mortadella Ossolana, prosciutto crudo, violin di capra della Valle Vigezzo (cured goat leg), herb flavored lard from Macugnaga, and carne secca (dried meat). For the perfect afternoon snack, locals typically indulge in salame, pancetta, and bresaola. In nearby Novara, pork reigns supreme with salam della duja and Fidighin Pat, both made from pork, as the most popular cured meats. Each of these cured meats pairs perfectly with the local wines.

FIRST COURSE

In true Italian form, pasta is prevalent throughout the Lake Maggiore area. Whether it is tajarin, tagliatelle, or another shape, pasta is made fresh in most establishments. The pasta here has a decadent quality about it, and its freshness makes it simply mouthwatering. Add to that the various homemade and flavorful sauces and perfectly seasoned meat or fish that can accompany these pasta dishes, and the pasta possibilities are virtually endless.

For those that prefer something a little different, risotto based dishes are first course favorites here as well. In fact, many towns along the lake use rice varieties grown in the nearby Novara area. One of the most iconic risotto dishes is called paniscia or panissa. Found in both Piedmont and Lombardy, the exact recipe of paniscia may vary depending on where it is prepared. The traditional recipe is from Novara and it features borlotti beans, cabbage, lard, onion, carrots, celery, tomatoes, and a local cured meat called salame della duja. At one time, the dish was made with a grain similar to millet and was served exclusively during holidays or celebrations. However, today paniscia is made with rice and can be enjoyed year-round.

Another classic Lake Maggiore dish is risotto al pesce persico, or risotto with perch. Born out of the Italian tradition that nothing should go to waste, the rice is cooked in a stock made from fish head and bones leftover from preparing the perch. As the risotto slowly cooks, the perch is made by flouring the fillets and frying them in butter and sage. When everything is ready, the perch is served on top of the risotto and everything is drizzled with the remaining melted butter.

Minestra di castagne e latte, milk and chestnut soup, is a first course dish that is unique to the area and typically served during the winter. Part of the local peasant cooking tradition, this flavorful soup starts with dried chestnuts that are submerged in water for at least an hour then boiled in milk. In some cases, rice is added around the last ten minutes and cooked in the milk along with the chestnuts.

SECOND COURSE

As one would imagine with Lake Maggiore’s grand size and natural bounty, fish is an ingredient for many of the dishes at local dining establishments.

The most common type of fish in the area is perch, which is usually cut into filets and breaded.

Another specialty that must be mentioned is bleak, which is either lightly fried or served carpione style, which means it is fried then marinated in a mixture of vegetables, olive oil, vinegar and wine. Carpione is a popular way to prepare fish in nearby Lake Como as well.

Other fish commonly featured on local menus are pike and trout, which are typically poached and served with mayonnaise.

In the winter, eel is often served with a generous helping of warm polenta that is seasoned with a delicious fish sauce. The eel is usually cut into slices and fried then marinated in vinegar. Finally, the eel is covered with a flavorful sauce made from garlic, bay leaf, onion, and peeled tomatoes.

Another unique fish dish is trota della Val Grande ai profumi alpini (trout in the style of Val Grande with Alpine aromas). To prepare this dish, the trout is cleaned and stuffed with aromatic herbs. Then, it is covered with a generous amount of butter and cooked on soapstone.

Although fish-based dishes tend to steal the show in lakeside towns and communities, some meat can be found on the menu at local restaurants as well. In particular, the nearby mountain areas tend to feature meat specialties such as wild boar or roe deer served with polenta.

STREET FOOD

With a shoreline as vast as Lake Maggiore’s, there is much to see and do, but perhaps one of the most basic, yet awe inspiring, delights is to wander the streets of the towns and islands that make up this community. As you enjoy a morning or evening stroll, be sure to grab a satisfying snack to keep your energy up for more sightseeing.

There is not one particular food that is designated as street food in the Lake Maggiore area, yet some local specialties do lend themselves to being enjoyed on the go. One example is alborelle fritte (fried bleak fish) that can be served in a paper cone and eaten as you continue your exploration of Lake Maggiore.

DESSERT

The perfect complement to a delightful afternoon tea is a popular cookie called margheritine di Stresa. These biscuits dusted with powdered sugar were originally created to honor Queen Margherita of Savoy and quickly became a symbol of Stresa. They are now widely enjoyed across Lake Maggiore. These tasty little bites are light and have a distinctive daisy shape and delicious buttery lemon taste that makes it hard to stop at eating only one.

One traditional sweet bread of sorts of Lake Maggiore is a rye loaf that can appear dark or almost black, called crescenzin. Native to the Ossola Valleys, this filling loaf of bread is usually stuffed with a combination of raisins, figs, and walnuts and is sometimes topped with sugar.

Another traditional sweet cake of sorts is fugascine, which is from the town of Mergozzo. This bread is made from the basics of sugar, flour, eggs, and yeast, but the special touches that make it unique are typically Marsala and lemon flavors. Many dining establishments cut this cake into squares while it is still warm from the oven. Be forewarned that one square is rarely enough to satisfy taste buds.

Yet another frequently enjoyed cake in Lake Maggiore is the dolce di Varese, also known as amor polenta. This light and spongy cake is made with a combination of ground almonds and corn flour, yielding a beautiful log-shaped cake with a yellow color. For an extra special touch, some bakers top the cake with a generous sprinkling of powdered sugar before slicing.

Two other biscuits popular in Lake Maggiore are Intresine and Novara biscuits. Intresine, also referred to as Intresine of Verbania, boast a buttery flavor and are topped with sliced almonds and hazelnuts. Novara biscuits are dry biscuits with an oval shape made from only three basic ingredients (flour, sugar, and eggs). These crumbly cookies are frequently enjoyed dunked into a cup of milk or coffee.

When ordering dessert in Lake Maggiore, traditional cakes and biscuits are a unique treat to the area and pair well with an evening tea or coffee. One of the only downsides to eating dessert here is having enough room left over after dinner to still enjoy it all.

WINE

Depending on the area of Lake Maggiore you are visiting, from the hills around the lake to the Alpine valleys, the wine offerings may vary. The Novara hills are widely known for the production of outstanding wines including Barbera, Ghemme, Nebbiolo, and Vespolina.

On the other hand, the hillsides in areas like the Ossola Valleys produce a slightly different tasting line of wines including Cà d’ Matè, Neuv Brushett, Prünent, Ossolanum, Balòss, and Tarlap. Another outstanding area for wine is Angera, which is produced around Angera in white and red varieties.

Whether you choose to complement your meal with a glass of fine wine, or the wine is simply an ingredient in a first or second course you are enjoying, the rich and bold flavor of locally made wines may just have you asking for more.

Finally, in Lake Maggiore there is a special treat for beer lovers as well. In the town of Valganna, which is located in the province of Varese, travelers will find one of the oldest beer producers in Italy: Angelo Poretti. Founded in 1877, a visit to the Liberty style buildings of the brewery is truly an unforgettable experience. The brewery produces several varieties of beers including lagers and porters, each more flavorful than the last.

With fresh lake fish and superb alpine cheeses, the cuisine of Lake Maggiore is indicative of the area’s astounding natural surroundings. The esteemed local wine and scenic lakeside views are the perfect pairing to any meal in the captivating Lake Maggiore area.

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